via Normal Route, from Refuge Padova
Beautiful climb to a summit that deserves the name of tower, given the slender shape it shows when you admire it from the approach path.
The rock is good and the difficulties are modest; the approach is quite tiring but takes place in a lovely setting: the Ciadin di Toro, a wide valley surrounded by the summits of the Spalti di Toro.
Along the climbing route, stops and double ropes are well equipped, however there are nearly no nails along the pitches, and it is not always easy to place fast protections, if you feel the need. At the beginning of the season, or after a snowy winter, you may need an ice ax and crampons to climb the snowfield in the final part of the approach.
Author's note: I thank my friend Armando that proposed this route, and who appears in many photographs.
From Domegge di Cadore, you drive down to the lake below, cross a bridge, in the direction of the Rifugio Padova, then you drive for a few kilometers along a partially paved road, up to the parking lot, a few hundred meters from the refuge.
From the car park or from the refuge, you take the path 357, passing aside a pasture, then entering the woods:
At an altitude of 1636 m, you turn to the right, and follow a rather visible trail:
You go up through the valley of the Ciadin di Toro, then you head to the fork that is to the right of to the rocky body which includes the Campanile Toro:
You go up on steep gravel and debris, nearly without a trace:
You are likely to climb up the last part of the approach trail along a steep snowfield:
The start of the climbing route is located at the point where a ledge branches off from the approach slope, to the left:
L1: You cross to the left along the ledge, until you find a dihedral-chimney.
30 m, I, II, stop on a nail.
L2: You climb up along the right side of the dihedral-chimney
until you reach the stop on an easy ledge.
35 m, II, III, stop on cemented ring.
L3: You climb up a ramp to the right
until you reach another ledge, rather wide.
25 m, II, III, stop on cemented ring.
L4: You traverse to the right along the easy ledge, until you catch a glimpse of the Val Cimoliana, while on the left a clear channel-chimney appears.
30 m, easy, unequipped stop
L5: You climb up the left side of the channel-chimney:
until to get out of it, and reach the next stop on a ledge.
40 m, II, III, stop on three nails, connected with ropes.
L6, L7: You cross to the left, then climb up the visible ramp:
until you reach the clevis between the top and its secondary summit, on a stuck boulder.
40 m, II, III, stop on cemented ring.
L8, L9: You climb up the plate, along a nice crack:
then, avoiding what seems a stop (it is in fact a point of descent), you turn right on a ramp, bypassing the summit on the east side:
and then reach it, with a final step on easy rocks:
Ringing the bell is a must!
40 m, II, III, final stop on the basis of the bell frame.
From the summit you can enjoy a wonderful panorama, between the provinces of Belluno and Pordenone: besides the Spalti di Toro, you can see the Antelao, the Mountains of the Val Cimoliana, the Cridola:
You may make a double rope directly from the top to the point of descent avoided during L8, or even down to the clevis if you have enough rope. Or you descend by climbing down along L9 and part of L8, reaching the mentioned point of descent, and going down to the clevis (15 m):
From there, you make an uncomfortable double rope along the ramp (30 m):
You go back to s5 and from there you double rope along the channel-chimney (40 m, or 30 m double rope + 10 m of easy down-climbing):
You go back along the ledge to s3, and double-rope from there (25 m):
Then you double-rope from s2 (25 m):
and finally cross to the right along the ledge to get back to the route starting point.
Then you descend back towards the Ciadin di Toro:
and complete the return by going back along the forward path.
■ gb, 2014-07-05