by Via Strane Normali, from Località Domadore
Climbing route opened by Alberto da Ronch in collaboration with the author on August 7, 2010. First repeat of Angelo Spadaro, Mila Costa and Massimiliano Emer, on 8 July 2012.
The Punta del Caldrolon has very few climbs ever, also for the fact that the original Via Normale presents high difficulties. Compared to it, the Via Strane normali has lowered by more than one degree the maximum difficulty of ascent, and takes place on good rock - still somewhere to clean - thus providing relatively easy access to this beautiful summit.
Hammer and nails are essential; it is recommended also to bring some lanyards and quick links to reinforce or renew the double rope points.
Author's Note: I warmly thank Alberto, who wanted to share with me the first ascent of this route, and who appears in various photographs.
From near Gosaldo, take a small road leading to Località Domadore, where there is a pitch to park.
At the fork near the parking, take the road to Malga Cavallera. At the next junction, you can continue along the road, or take the left path that climbs more quickly to the hut.
While approaching the hut, you can see the outline of Sass d'Ortiga:
Go past the hut, on a trail in the grass, then bend to the left and cross. As you reach the edge of the pasture, you reach and pass over a cross:
The long trail continues along the side of the mountain:
You reach the fork to Forcella d'Oltro, and you take that direction, uphill:
Before you reach the clevis, stray from the path to the right and go up on steep fields:
This way you get to the starting point, which is located at an altitude of about 2150 m, at the south-east edge of the base:
L1: Climb diagonally decidedly to the right, upon good yellow rock (IV). You arrive at a chimney-crack, where you still go diagonally right (nail), then up (a step of V) and stand above the chimney, on a comfortable pitch (nail). 35 m, IV, one step of V.
L2: Aim directly to the apparent ledge above, climbing on vertical slabs, leaving to your left an obvious dihedral. You find a tunnel towards the end of the length. Stop on pines:
35 m, V.
L3: From the pines you reach and climb a short chimney on the left (IV):
You reach a clevis; from here go down briefly on the opposite side, then traverse few meters left and stop on a large tunnel:
40 m, IV, III.
L4: You go up quite freely along easy rocks, until you reach a gully on the right:
You get to a crumbly clevis, and stop a few meters upper left, on a spike. 55 m, III+.
L5: Go up about 20 meters, pointing directly to the top (steps of III):
Stop on a spike. 20 m, II, steps of III.
The descent is carried out preferably on the side towards Forcella d'Oltro, as for the original Via Normale. Double rope points are equipped; they possibly need to be reinforced or renewed. You run two double ropes of 40 meters and one of 15 meters in the right channel (face-to-valley). Finally, the last double rope on an overhang of about 40 meters allows you to reach the meadows below.
The rest of the return takes place on the route forward.
■ gb, 2010-08-07