by Via Glück (west edge), from Rifugio Juac
Beautiful climbing route, varied and interesting, on good rock, with some nice stretches exposed on the edge, with fairly short approach. Due to the relatively low altitude, it is possible to climb early in the season, despite a partial exposure to the north. The stops are equipped or easily fitted out, there are few nails along the way, but they can be integrated with fast protections.
Author's Note: I thank my friend Francesco, who shared with me this climb, and who appears in several photographs.
Just south of the Refuge Juac, you take the path signposted to the Rifugio Stevia, you follow it for about 300 meters, then you deviate from the path to the left to a visible track. Continue in the coast to the left, then go up a stretch:
Then again you cross or oblique to the left. Shortly after passing the base of Torre Firenze, climb up a scree:
The starting point is located a few tens of meters above the base, in a small dihedral:
L1, L2: Rise at an angle to the left (or possibly a few meters to the right at the beginning, then on the left), quite freely, on fairly easy rocks, aiming to move progressively towards the vertical wall which is located at the top right:
The second stop is right under the wall:
90 m, III+.
L3: You go left along a ramp for a few meters until you find a crossing point on exposed ledge to the right, along which you pass just above the stop, and then stand on a spike immediately after, or rather on a spit some meters further right. 25 m, IV-, nail.
L4: You cross right again, passing on the west side of the mountain:
Then you go up straight, finding the key step, and continue to the stop. 25 m, III, IV+ o A0, nail.
L5: Go up on low difficulties, up to the stop, on pines:
30 m, III.
L6: Climb up little to the right of the edge, along a crack, with a non-trivial initial step. 40 m, IV.
L7: On easier rocks, along the edge. 30 m, III.
L8: Easy transfer stretch, on grass and rocks:
50 m, I.
L9: Right of the edge, on low difficulties:
30 m, III.
L10: Climb a ledge a few meters, then go off to the left on the cutting edge:
Then go up straight, up to the stop, on a grassy patch. 40 m, IV-.
L11: Go up a little right of the edge:
30 m, III+.
L12: Climb up right on the edge:
50 m, IV-.
L13: Go up on easier rocks:
40 m, III.
L14: On easy rocks, go up, up to the stop, on a spike:
40 m, II.
On easy terrain you reach the top. Beautiful landscape on the Sassolungo, the Sciliar, the Odle, the plateau of Seceda:
Go east, towards a clevis:
This bring you on the plateau of Stevia. Nice view towards the Sella Group, and the Cir Group:
Descend to the refuge Stevia, along the meadows. Then take the path 17, which after about 20 minutes forks. Following the path 17 you return to the Refuge Juac, while following the 17a you will head directly to the parking lot of Daunëi.
■ gb, 2013-07-05
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