via the North-Western Edge, from San Martino di Castrozza


The Cusiglio is located at the foot of the Rosetta, which towers above it from about 200 m, and in turn it dominates the Figlio della Rosetta, from about 150 m.

The climb described here goes up along the North-West corner, and was first ascended by Bortolo Zagonel, Michele Bettega and the Count of Lovelace in 1901. It is a quite easy climbing, but takes place on solid rock and offers great views.

Author's Note: I thank my friend Armando who accompanied me during the repetition in November 2013, and who appears in some photographs.

Important notice: we have received bad news about the state of the return path, being without signs or cairns and friable, and the gully very difficult to descend.


Near the village of San Martino di Castrozza, along the SS50 in the direction of Passo Rolle, there is a wide parking lot, partly at the lower station of the Col Verde cableway, partly at the side of the road.


From the valley station of the cableway, after a few tens of meters to the south-east, take the evident service road of the ski slope, heading north-east.

You cross the intersection with another dirt road, further on you pass the junction for Malga Pala, then again that for the Sentiero dei Cacciatori, and shortly after, where the road bends sharply to the left, you leave it, going straight ahead towards a big boulder:

You cross the river bed to the right, and go up along a trail, not always clear:

The trail climbs along the slope, often steep, always keeping to the right of the bed of the stream that comes down from the Forcella del Cusiglio. After exiting the area of pines, you continue on gravel and stones:

You go over some large boulders:

In short you reach a rock body, where you take the track that runs along the wall to the right in the direction of a visible niche:

That is the starting point of the climb.


Traverse the ledge:

Then you go up on easy rocks, bypassing a stuck boulder, until you find a point on the left where it is easier to move up (nail), with a step of grade III.

You finds yourself on a slab, of grade II:

You climb it in the direction of the slot that you see on the ridge, which turns out to be a crack-chimney:

You climb it (III, II), then follow the edge on the right, up to a terrace with a cairn:

You go just past the edge, which is now up to the left, looking for the easiest line of ascent:

You pass a stop with two nails, go up again (II, step III) to reach a final crack:

Then you can easily reach the summit.

From there you can enjoy beautiful views towards the Pala di San Martino, on the area of Primiero, on San Martino di Castrozza, towards Passo Rolle, and towards the Cimon della Pala:

On the north-east you can see the towering silhouette of the Rosetta.


You move a few meters to the east, and on the right you will find a short chimney:

After going down, you walk on a ledge to the left, then right towards a gully, then left again towards a shoulder:

Beyond it, you go down on easy but not very solid rocks, until you reach a grassy saddle:

From there you descend down a steep gully to the north-east:

At its end, you turn left to go up to the Forcella del Cusiglio:

Then you go down the other side, along a steep trail, until you reach the approach path, and follow it back.

gb, 2011-10-01

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