via Sentiero dei Fratelli Giuliani, from Rifugio Sette Selle

The Sasso Rotto is one of the peaks that surround the Rifugio Sette Selle, consisting of porphyry. Its crest is interesting and is crossed by a climbing route, not difficult for those who have experience of climbing, which goes through large boulders and slabs of porphyry. Some pass through it without a rope, the more with a short rope.

To be avoided in case it is wet, because of slippery rock.


From Rifugio Sette Selle take path 315, and go up to the junction with trail 343, which you take to the right. The trail climbs up hill up to a cairn, then descends a bit towards the western side of Sasso Broken, then proceeds across the mountainside.

After you have actually passed by the Sasso Rotto, on the left a trail marked as 312 goes up to the pass of the same name:

At the pass, that you reach quickly, you find the starting point of the climbing route:



Proceed on the ridge, following the frequent white-red stamps:

The difficulty is never high, but there are quite frequent exposed sections, and also some steps to deal with some care.

A first esposed rift can be crossed with a split in order to find the right balance.

In couple of points the passage takes place under the rocks:

A step is to pass on an inclined boulder, by friction climbing:

Another requires to go down a hole a couple of meters deep: useful a couple of tapes, one to drop the backpack and the other to hold oneself on a stuck rock (under the foot in the photo):

Another passage in which it is comfortable to drop the backpack in advance is on a small ledge on which you may find comfortable to pass in a sitting position:

Before the summit, there is another passage under the rocks:

You eventually reach the summit, where there is a cross


Take the Via Normale, heading west. This first goes down on some rocks, then in a couloir, until you to rejoin path 343 which leads you back to the shelter.

gb, 2013-06-22

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