Schwarzhorn and Ludwigshöhe, from Punta Indren

discesa tra i seracchi

A great opportunity to concatenate three 4000 in the Monte Rosa, and enjoy extraordinary views. You can possibly exclude some of the peaks, depending on the possible fatigue or shortness of breath at high altitude.

If you decide to include the Schwarzhorn (the second peak in the map), crampons and ice ax are required, because there is a short slope, 45 degrees steep, often icy.


You go through the Valley of Gressoney from Pont Saint Martin, in the Val d'Aosta, until you reach Staffal, where the road ends, and there are several cableways.

parcheggio Staffal, impianti


You take the cableway to Punta Indren (3275 m)

arrivo funivia

In front of you, at the exit of the cableway there is a rocky crag with two channels that allow to overcome it.

verso il canale di sinistra

In the steepest part you take off your skis and proceed on foot, with or without crampons, depending on the conditions.

il canale di sinistra

Through this direct route you will come out on a plateau, where on our left you can see the Refuge Gniffetti

il rifugio Gniffetti

while in front of you the Piramide Vincent stands out

Piramide Vincent

You continue in the indirection of the Col del Lys, leaving on your right the Pyramid; some rocky spurs appear to the right, before the Col del Lys: the Balmenhorn with the Bivouac Giordani, and the Schwarzhorn

si aggira a sinistra

You can climb the Balmenhorn either on the right, or from the north (as shown in the map)

Balmenhorn con il Cristo (destra) e Corno Nero (sin)

Here in the photo the north side and the profile of the Christ of the Peaks; on the left the Schwarzhorn

verso il Cristo del Balmenhorn

You reach the rocks and with the help of some brackets you get to the summit

brevi roccette


You go back down to the saddle between the Schwarzhorn and the Ludwigshohe

Corno nero al centro, a sin Ludwighohe

Here are the two mountains, seen from Punta Parrot:

la ripida rampa del Corno nero al centro e Ludwighohe (sin) viste dalla Parrot

You climb up the steep slope of the Schwarzhorn

Corno Nero

until you get to the statue of the Virgin Mary. Then you briefy descend, and climb up the Ludwigshohe; in the picture some nice Sicilians are with us


Behind you can see the eastern Lyskamm

Lyskamm orientale dalla vetta


You go back through the Lys glacier, along the forward route, between gorgeous seracs.

fb, 2014-06-30

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