by Via Normale, from Bivacco Vigolana

Calata dalla Guglia della Madonnina

The pinnacle of the Madonnina can seen even from Trento, due to its particular position. It is hard, for someone fond of climbing, not to desire climbing it, although the ascent can be quite challenging, at least in a section, and requires the effort to bring the equipment up to the place.

You will need a half rope of 60 m, to use doubled, 6-7 referrals, some tape to make them longer, and the necessary equipment for a double rope descent. Nails and bolts are present and located fairly close to one another; the point of descent is well equipped.

Author's Note: I thank the friends Angelo and Mila who have shared this journey with me and that appear in some photographs.


You can reach the bivouac Vigolana from Refuge Casarota or Refuge Paludei (see specific itineraries). Near the bivouac there are two peaks, one called il Frate, connected to the main wall, the other called la Madonnina, which stands near:

The starting point is on the socket between the two pinnacles.

Schema and route

Climb along the south wall of the Madonnina, following the easiest line of ascent. A dihedral offers a short stretch of difficulty significantly higher than the III+ stated in the guides, probably around V, resettable.

After overcoming it, go around the top of the pinnace, to the left, along a small ledge, then climb over easier rocks up to the top.


In double rope, 30 m, from the descent point you find near the top.

gb, 2013-06-29

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