in the paradise of Val Breguzzo
This tour takes you to climb the highest peak of the Valley of Breguzzo, a hidden little gem of south-western Trentino. From the summit you can enjoy a 360° view, not only on the highest peaks in the area (Adamello, Carè Alto, Crozzon di Lares, Presanella, Brenta, just to name a few), but on many of the valleys around (Fumo, Daone, Breguzzo... ) and peaks of the low Trentino (Carega, Lagorai, Baldo, ...). On clear days you can see, above the mists of the lowland, even some summits of the Apennines.
The route is quite challenging because of the length, the altitude, and the technical difficulties represented by steep, rock stretches, and the final ridge.
Beware of avalanche danger, the slopes are quite steep in several places. Inquire at the shelter about the state of the ridge which may be impossible to climb, due to snow or any snow overhangs.
The route, with enough snow, is a beautiful ski mountaineering trail (OSA), although in some places (the final ridge and the gullies), it is necessary to remove the skis and put on crampons, ice ax and helmet. Rope and harness may be useful in the most exposed points.
You drive by car along the Val Breguzzo as far as possible, depending on snow conditions. If conditions allow it, you can park at a hydroelectric plant, otherwise you need to stop before, there are several parking lots along the way, such as near the shelter Pont'Arnò.
From the parking area, cross the bridge over the river Arnò and turn left (signs and billboard), continuing along the dirt road, following the path 223, that leads to the Refuge Trivena, at a height of 1650 m.
And then you always follow the path 223, going up the valley towards the Pian di Redont, located at an altitude of 1970 m.
You pass the flat and climb towards the only valley that descends (Val del Vescovo), located at the bottom of the basin, on the left going up. After having climbed about three-quarters of the gravel cone, at 2050 m, turn right onto a narrow gully blocked by a large boulder at the top.
Depending on snow conditions, the rock may be more or less easy to overcome, in each case on the right is a lanyard to facilitate ascent.
Immediately above the boulder, half-hidden under a rock, there is also a lanyard for possibly descending on double rope: attention, check the status of the tape! It appeared worn and stiff to us.
After crossing the gully and reaching the altitude of 2150 m, you have to face large steep slopes but without difficulty.
After about 600 meters of ascent you are in a valley at the base of the Cop di Breguzzo. You climb up the steep slopes in the direction of a narrow gully little located to the left of the Passo dei Cacciatori, which is on the northern side of the summit.
You climb up the gully (slopes of about 50°), that depending on the snow conditions may be more or less smooth, until you reach the edge of the ridge.
From there, you continue towards the summit (south) bypassing the most difficult point, first on the right (west), then on the left (east), also helped here by a nail with lanyard in the most challenging passage (II) and just over a nail that can be used for a double rope, or to secure the climb. Depending on snow conditions, these anchors may be hidden by the snow.
You always follow the ridge until you reach the flat summit, where you can enjoy a wonderful view.
■ bd, 2013-12-14
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