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Alpinism

MONTE CASTELLO DI GAINO

climbing route Cresta Sud

Monte Castello di Gaino offers a panoramic position on Lago di Garda. On its south ridge of beautiful limestone, runs a beautiful ascent, not so difficult, but quite long, on a rock of excellent quality.


Access

Along the West Gardesana road, at Toscolano, turn following the indication towards the town of Gaino. Reach the town and drive beyond, until you come to a clearing where you can leave the car:


Approach

From here continue on foot; when you reach a sign for the climbing wall, turn left:

You will soon reach the climbing wall, in which central sector you can find the start of the climbing route:

Climbing route

Climb up the chimney, and then go slightly to the right, along a corner.
The climb continues for about 700 m of length, following the easiest line of the ridge.

In many places you can, alternatively, either climb or trail.
You reach a first buttress, then a smaller one, and continue until you reach a secondary sumit, from where you can see the main summit, in the north-west
:

From here you continue along the trail, sometimes exposed, with short stretches of climbing, until you reach the top:


Return

Take the path that heads north, sometimes equipped with cables, until you reach a saddle, with an indication to the top, from where you came from:

Go to the right, taking a path that descends mostly obliquely along the east side of the mountain, before finally reaching the junction for the climbing wall, until you finally reach the starting point.

gb, 2013-03-16

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