via the Normal Route, from Refuge Brentei
The Campanile Basso is considered one of the most beautiful peaks of the Dolomites, due to its towering shape and vertical walls on all sides. The climb along the Normal Route is simply great, well-articulated and not always easy.
Author's Note: I thank my friend Flavio, who shared with me this wonderful climb, and who appears in several photographs. I also thank user Agh of forum Girovagandoinmontagna.it, who provided me with the GPS track of the approach trail.
From the Refuge Brentei, go up towards the Bocca di Brenta, passing in the upper part some ridges of rock, with the help of some metal ropes, and occasionally walking on snowfields:
Before reaching the bocca, turn left and go up to take the Via Ferrata of Bocchette Centrali:
Follow it up to the Bocchetta del Campanile Basso, where you go down a few meters to the left, and then go up freely along the the south-east base rocks of Campanile Basso, up to a terrace where lies the starting point (cemented rings).
L1: Climb along the easy rocks, then following a chimney tilted to the right, up to a terrace. 35 m, III+, nails.
L2: You climb up the vertical wall called Parete Pooli:
You climb on polished footholds, in the upper part exploiting a blade of rock, and then traverse to the right, almost to the edge, up to a terrace where you will find the stop. Beautiful view of the Campanile Alto:
30 m, IV, IV+, nails.
L3: You go round the edge, then climb straight up to a ledge, where you traverse to the right for about ten meters, up to the stop. 40 m, III.
L4: You climb obliquely to the right, quite freely, until you reach the wall above which begin the Y-shaped Chimney. 40 m, II, III.
L5: You climb up the wall, up to the base of the Y-shaped Chimney, where you stop:
25 m, III.
L6: You climb up one of the two branches, the left one preferably:
Then you soon reach the large ledge called Stradone Provinciale. 45 m, III, IV.
L7: You traverse the whole Stradone Provinciale to the right, under the wall called Parete Ampferer:
You can enjoy a great view on the Massif of Cima Tosa:
You go around the edge, thus reaching the west shoulder, where you stop at the base of a dihedral-chimney.
L8, L9: Climb the long dihedral-chimney, dividing it with an intermediate stop:
You have to take care not to go up too far, otherwise you will reach a terrace called Albergo al Sole, which is off-way. 60 m, III, IV, nails.
L10: You climb up the vertical and darkish wall on the left:
up to a small terrace called Terrazzino del Re del Belgio, where you stop. 40 m, IV.
L11: You traverse left along a narrow ledge, which brings you back to the Parete Ampferer, with a very exposed passage:
After about ten meters, where the edge is less narrow, you stop. 15 m, III.
L12: Key length: you climb straight up along the vertical wall, passing left of a nose:
and stopping just upon it. 40 m, IV+, V-, nails.
L13: You climb up along easiers rocks up to the summit:
30 m, III, II.
At the top you find the characteristic tubular bell:
You have a magnificent view on the Campanile Alto:
With a long double rope you reach the Balcone del Re del Belgio, from which with two double ropes you reach the Stradone Provinciale. You go back along it until you find the stop, from which two double ropes bring you directly to the ledge of arrival of the third length:
You go back along the ledge, then perform other two double ropes, along the Parete Pooli, and down to the starting point.
Then you go back along the approach path.
■ gb, 2010-08-21
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