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Alpinism

PILASTRO DEL VAJO STRETTO

via the Spigolo Noaro, from Malga Cornetto

Pilastro del Vajo Stretto - Spigolo Noaro

The Pilastro del Vajo Stretto is part of the Sengio Alto, a subgroup of the Piccole Dolomiti (small Dolomites), and is easily accessible from the Passo Pian delle Fugazze, which makes it a convenient destination for those who come both from the Province of Vicenza and Trento.

Here is described the Spigolo Noaro, together with the Variante d'Attacco, opened in 2007 by A. Castagna and R. Ferraretto. There are a total of 10 lengths of rope, half of which are on the variant and half on the edge.

Like the other climbs on the peaks of the group, it benefits from the relatively low altitude, so it can be frequented over a very wide seasonal period. It is advisable to avoid, however, the days after rainy periods, due to the wet rock, both on the most challenging parts of the climb, and along the return trail.


Access

From Rovereto, along the SS46 of Vallarsa, or from the Vicenza side, by the SP46, you reach Passo Pian delle Fugazze, from where you take the SP99 to the Military Memorial of Pasubio. At about 1 km from the pass, shortly after passing Malga Cornetto, there is a parking pitch on the left side of the road.


Approach

You take the path 44 to the Vajo Stretto, first to the south-west and then west:

You walk through an area invaded by boulders and debris of a recent landslide:

Then you go up through the forest to the south-west, up to the starting point, before passing in front of the base of the vajo:


Climb of the Variante d'Attacco

L1, L2: You climb up, slightly at an angle to the right, following the less difficult line of ascent, and finding various nails and tunnels, typically most of which are equipped with lanyards, until you stop on two nails with lanyard:

50 m, IV, V-, III, IV, nails and tunnels.

L3: You continue on the edge, up to the stop, on two nails with lanyard:

30 m, IV+, nails and tunnels.

L4: You continue along the edge, on low difficulty, with a stop on a comfortable terrace with a view of the vajo, on two nails with lanyard:

25 m, III, I, tunnel and mountains pines.

L5: You start on the right of the edge:

then you continue on low difficulties up to a stop on pines. Here is located the starting point of the Spigolo Noaro. 45 m, IV+, II+, I, nail and moutain pines.


Climb of the Spigolo Noaro

L1, L2: You climb along the edge, until you reach a stop on an eyebolt:

55m, II+, tunnels and mountain pines.

L3: You climb up left of the edge, possibly taking advantage of a short chimney, until you reach the stop with eyebolt, a little shifted to the left:

30 m, III e III+, mountain pines and tunnels.

L4: From the stop, you go right, entering the chimney, goin up very little (nail), and emerging on the right, right on the edge:

Then you climb up, slightly obliquely to the left of the edge, until the stop on eyebolt. 30 m, IV, nails.

L5: Climb along the less difficult line of ascent, following the nails, first at an angle to the right, then left, again slightly to the right, then straight up, looking for a small overhang with good holds, and overcoming it:

then continue to climb up to the stop on double eyebolt. 30 m, IV+, V-, IV, nails.


Return

Go up on easy rocks and stretches of trail:

You bypass the summit on the left, and you reach and cross a short cave:

After a step down, you go down by double rope from a balcony, for about twenty meters. Then you cross again to the left of a body of rock, on an exposed ledge:

So you get to the second point of descent, where you go down to about 15 m:

So you have reached the higher end of the Vajo Stretto, which is a wide and steep crack. You descend along the vajo, with the help of chains, brackets and a ladder:

At the exit of the vajo, you go up on the left:

You pass under a stuck boulder, and go down again along the last chains, then along a path in the woods, finding the starting point of the variant, and finally going back along the approach path.

gb, 2013-10-26

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