Trekking TraversaMarche Description



In cammino verso Aspiocon vista su Monte Conero

I have conceived and planned this journey in the autumn-winter of 2017. For me it had a reminiscent meaning, the rediscovery of my paternal family origins, through places visited during childhood, but also an exploratory sense, to broaden my horizons beyond what I knew.

The itinerary crosses the Marche from west to east, starting from Fabriano and reaching the Conero. I walked it partly in the spring of 2017, and the rest in the early summer of 2019, mostly accompanied by my sweet wife, and in some stages also by a couple of dear friends.

We had a chance to admire a wide variety of landscapes, starting from the suggestive mountains of the Fabriano and Frasassi areas, continuing through the gentle and green hills of the Vallesina, to conclude with the enchanting views and the renowned beaches of the Parco del Conero. And all this by crossing many villages and towns, rich in history and charm.

Taking this itinerary on foot has allowed us to walk through its territory slowly and attentively, and fully appreciate its views, colors and fragrances. Also considering the exquisite cuisine, the typical wines, and the great hospitality, I can say that it has been a wonderful emotional and sensorial experience.


The itinerary is composed of six stages, totalling 109 Km:

In addition, we describe a tour on Monte Conero. We also present some other places, not all of which right along the way, which can pleasantly enrich the journey.

Period of the year

The recommended periods are spring and autumn, when temperatures are more pleasant, and it is easier to find a place for overnight stays.

Taking the route if temperatures are high is at best a source of discomfort, but it can also put the walker in a difficult situation.


The Pedemontana delle Marche railway is the recommended way to reach Fabriano, the starting point of the itinerary, but also San Vittore delle Chiuse, a reference point for the trip to the Frasassi Caves. Please refer to the Trenitalia website.

For the rest, a network of bus companies allows easy travel in all directions. Consult the timetables of the local Transport and Mobility Company, that can also be downloaded in PDF format.

To find places to stay overnight, the internet is the privileged source. Nevertheless, in the description of the individual stages, the B&Bs in which we have stayed are indicated.

The trekking-etc/viewer app, with the itineraries of the individual stages that can be downloaded for off-line use, is the ideal guide to easily follow the route.

The Frasassi Caves

This geological wonder is a must.

We get off the train at the Genga - San Vittore station, walk about 200 m to the north, cross the rail crossing, then head towards the large square where the ticket office and the shuttle departure point are located. The shuttle takes us directly to the cave entry, for a guided tour.

Going through the limited part that is open to the public, and listening to the words of the guide, we can imagine the immense emotion felt by the discoverers, and we remain ecstatic at the sight of the incredible shapes that nature has patiently created over the millennia.

Grotte di FrasassiStanza delle Candele

Grotte di Frasassi

Grotte di Frasassi


Here begins our long journey. Before starting it, we try to get a feeling of the history of the city, by walking a few steps into the historic center.

In Piazza del Comune we find the Palazzo del Podestà and the Sturinalto fountain,

Piazza del Comune

and also the Loggiato di San Francesco:

Loggiato di San Francesco

Not far away, in Piazza Papa Giovanni Paolo, we find the cathedral of San Venanzio,

la Cattedrale di San Venanzio

and the former hospital of Santa Maria del Buon Gesù:

Pinacoteca civica - particolare del loggiato

It would be recommendable to also find time to visit the Paper and Watermark Museum, which testifies to the historical importance of the city's paper production. It is located near the Regina Margherita park, in Viale Giambattista Zobicco.

From Fabriano to Pierosara

It's time to walk. More than a hundred kilometers await us in all; we have great enthusiasm and expectations.

The initial part of the first stage takes place mainly on streets and lanes, along which we move away from Fabriano through gentle hilly landscapes.

in cammino da Fabriano verso Moscano

colline e montagne

Later, mainly on paths, through broad-leaved woods, we go up the western side of the ridge that separates the Fabriano area from the Parco della Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi.

In cammino
nel bosco di latifoglie

The ridge is formed by various peaks, roughly aligned with one another, including Monte le ConcheMonte Rimosse, and Monte Valmontagnana.

In cammino
verso Monte Valmontagnana

In May, among the many flowers, the acacias, the gorse and the laburnum stand out.

In cammino
fioritura di acacie

In cammino
verso Monte Valmontagnana


After having risen to about 800 m, we cross the eastern side of the ridge with little inclination, without reaching the top.

In cammino
verso Monte Valmontagnana

The meadows are rich in flowers of every color.


The view of the Gola della Rossa and Monte Murano opens up, and we see the town of Pierosara.

verso la Gola della Rossa

Near the Casale Romei hut, we begin a long descent along the Cagliostro path. Some steps require attention. It is possible to avoid this stretch by choosing the easy variant; see description of the first stage.

Passaggio lungo il Sentiero Cagliostro
scendendo verso San Vittore delle Chiuse

Our descent ends at San Vittore.

Scendendo per il Sentiero Cagliostro
verso San Vittore delle Chiuse

Vista su San Vittore delle Chiuse

A path goes up to Pierosara, a charming village that marks the end of the stage.


After sunset, the village lights up. A restful night awaits us, in the wonderful silence of the place.

atmosfera al crepuscolo

From Pierosara to Cupramontana

Two stages, with an intermediate stop in Serra San Quirico, that the most trained walker might want to merge into one.

We leave Pierosara behind us

Lasciando Pierosara
in cammino verso Cerqueto

and first we walk along quiet little streets, then on a comfortable path, between two wings of thick bushes of gorse, with an intense aroma.

In cammino tra le ginestre
da Cerqueto verso Monte Murano

We rise slowly until we come out of the woods, towards large lawns,

In cammino
verso Monte Murano

dotted with flowers.

Fiori di prato
nei pressi di Monte Murano

nei pressi di Monte Murano

nei pressi di Monte Murano

We take a last look, behind us, at the Monte Valmontagnana ridge,

Panorama da Monte Murano
verso Monte Valmontagnana

and we head towards the maximum elevation of the whole journey.

In cammino
verso Monte Murano

From the cross of Monte Murano the panorama is fantastic. The view stretches far to the east, embracing the whole of the Vallesina, and reaching the sea, about 50 km away.

Croce di Monte Murano
panorama verso la Vallesina

On meadows, and then through a forest, we go down towards Serra San Quirico.

In cammino
verso Serra San Quirico

Serra San Quirico

We allow ourselves a visit to the upper part of the village, a panoramic view from the Loggia Manin, and finally we descend along the characteristic Copertelle, an ancient porch.

Serra San Quirico
le Copertelle

Serra San Quirico
uscita dalle Copertelle

From the picturesque train station,

Serra San Quirico
stazione ferroviaria

we enter the countryside towards the village of Bruscara,

In cammino
da Serra San Quirico verso Bruscara

with a possible detour to the Abbey of Sant'Elena, leaving behind Serra San Quirico,

Serra San Quiricodalla strada per Bruscara

and Monte Murano.

Vista su Monte Muranodai pressi di Serra San Quirico

Along the road

In cammino
verso Bruscara

we happen to have a nice encounter.

su mano sudata

We walk for a long time, admiring the ever changing hilly landscape.

Vista verso Mergodalla strada per Bruscara

Panorama verso Monte Murano
dai pressi di Sasso

One last climb, with a possible deviation to the Hermitage of the White Friars, and we approach Cupramontana, until we reach it.

In cammino
verso Cupramontana

Cupramontana, Piazzale Cavour
Palazzo Municipale

By crossing the portal of the Town Hall, we find access to the evocative central square, oval in shape.

Piazza IV novembre

From Cupramontana to Santa Maria Nuova

This stage begins with roses and ends with more roses.

The expected rise in temperatures leads us to a very early start: it dawns when we leave Cupramontana.

Alba a Cupramontana

We soon pass by a rose garden.

lungo la strada per San Paolo di Jesi

We walk a long way through the countryside, passing the small village of San Michele, and as we approach San Paolo di Jesi, we see Cupramontana more and more distant.

Panorama collinare
dalla strada per San Paolo di Jesi

After San Paolo, we walk for a long time through endless green hills, always similar to themselves, but always different.

In cammino
verso Santa Maria Nuova

Panorama verso Monteroberto e Castelbellino
dalla strada per Santa Maria Nuova

Paesaggio collinare
lungo la strada per Santa Maria Nuova

On the left, the view extends towards Jesi and its surroundings.

Panorama verso Jesi
dalla strada per Santa Maria Nuova

And around us more hills, green hills, gentle hills.

Paesaggio collinare
lungo la strada per Santa Maria Nuova

Casale di collina
lungo la strada per Santa Maria Nuova

The small church of Santa Maria del Colle shows us that the destination is not far off.

Chiesetta di Santa Maria del Colle
nei pressi di Santa Maria Nuova

And in Santa Maria Nuova we find roses again. Many beautiful roses.

al B&B Il Giardino delle Rose


Santa Maria Nuova is the most favorable place from which to reach Jesi and visit it. The bus passes at fairly close times, and the travel takes about 20 minutes.

Many are the monuments, churches and other places of interest; we will just mention the Pergolesi Theater, the Arco Clementino and Piazza Federico II.

Teatro Pergolesi

Arco Clementino

Piazza Federico II

But we cannot fail to admire the mighty walls that surround the historic center,

le antiche mura

le antiche mura

which can only be accessed from three gates: Porta a Valle, where the bus station is located, Porta Bersaglieri,

Porta Bersaglieri

and Porta Garibaldi.

Porta Garibaldi

From Santa Maria Nuova to Offagna

Yes, I took this photo of Santa Maria Nuova as it dawned. No, we didn't leave so early, but later, after breakfast.

Santa Maria Nuova

After leaving the town,

Santa Maria Nuova
Palazzo del Comune

we dive back into the hills

poco dopo Santa Maria Nuova

Panorama collinare
poco dopo Monti

Campo di grano con papaveri
nei pressi di Rustico

In cammino verso Polverigi
tra campi di grano

After a long journey, our eyes, never satiated by those fascinating landscapes, capture the profile of Polverigi,

In cammino verso Polverigi
in vista del borgo

where shortly after we arrive.

fontana e Municipio

A brief visit, and after having refreshed ourselves, we leave again, crossing the wide and green valley that separates us from Offagna.

In cammino verso Offagna
paesaggio collinare in vista della Rocca

After reaching the village, we climb up to the imposing and beautiful fortress.

la Rocca

The view, from the adjacent vantage point, is wide and spectacular.

Panorama da Offagna
verso Osimo

Panorama da Offagnasul paese

Unfortunately we are unable to visit the inside of the fortress, with its renowned arms room, because the winter schedule, in force until mid-June, allows visits only during the weekend.


Offagna is the most favorable place, from the point of view of public mobility, from which to reach Osimo. Buses offer various trips throughout the day, and travel time is around twenty minutes.

The village, surrounded by high walls, offers various points of interest. We visit it with satisfaction, dwelling at the Town Hall, where the Osimani without Heads are located (head-less statues),

Palazzo del Municipio

and at the Co-cathedral of San Leopardo.

la co-Cattedrale di San Leopardo

We also pay attention to other churches, and to the theater, and walk along the panoramic terrace facing south and east, where the view, starting from the sea, turning clockwise, embraces countless hills, and numerous villages.

What we previously ignored is that even Osimo, like Camerano, has its own system of caves, dug by man over time, starting from the Picenes, about three thousand years ago, to continue with the Ancients Romans, and during the Middle Ages.

The competent guide accompanies us along the 300 meters of visitable caves, and tells us the history and the characteristics of the place.

le Grotte

le Grotte

Osimole Grotte

From Offagna to Sirolo

We move away from Offagna

Lasciando Offagna
in cammino verso Aspio

along quiet streets, with a view of Osimo, to our right.

Panorama collinare verso Osimo
poco dopo Offagna

Then we enjoy a good stretch on a path, in the green countryside and among wheat fields.

Panorama prima di Aspio
verso Candia

In camminoverso Ponte dell'Aspio

Paesaggio collinare
prima di Aspio

When we reach the valley bottom, near Ponte dell'Aspio and Aspio Terme, we cannot avoid a urban area, with a strong industrial and commercial character.

From our point of view it is the least attractive moment of the journey. Some stretches, even if short, require a lot of caution because of the traffic.

It is indeed easy to cross the motorway and the railway, thanks to convenient underpasses.

Sottopassonei pressi di Aspio

On the contrary, it is not easy to cross the state road,

Aspio Terme
attraversamento della strada statale

or to walk along the short stretch of the Conero road, because they lack pedestrian crossings and sidewalks.

But then we're back in the country,

In cammino verso Camerano
campi di grano e filari di pioppi

and we go up a quiet lane towards Camerano. The most trained take charge of the load.

Verso Camerano
i più allenati alleviano le altrui fatiche

At the end of the climb we reach the center of the village.

Piazza Roma

The main attraction of Camerano is the Caves, which can be visited by appointment.

Cameranole Grotte

Cameranole Grotte

le Grotte

We move away from Camerano,

dopo Camerano

dal sentiero per Massignano

along paths and small roads, which go up towards Massignano,

Sentiero per Massignano

where we meet the nice people of the Therapeutic Community, with whom we talk for a while.

gli amici del Centro Terapeutico

The road is now downhill.

In cammino
verso Sirolo

We pass by the Chiesetta della Madonnina,

Chiesetta della Madonnina

and not far from there we reach Sirolo.

verso il centro

From the central Piazzale Marino we enjoy the wonderful panorama of the Conero coast.

Sirolo, Piazzale Marino
panorama sul Conero

There is still time for a visit to the Urbani beach,

Vista sulla Spiaggia Urbani

and to admire the Challenge of the Contradas. It is difficult to carry water in a flared bowl, while running!

Sirolo, Palio di San Nicola
la Disfida delle Contrade

Monte Conero and the Due Sorelle

I like getting up early in the morning, in places by the sea, to admire the sunrise.

alba sul mare

Half an hour after I have left Sirolo, the sun has already rised above the horizon.

Il sole dopo l'alba
dal sentiero per Monte Conero

I go up the slopes of Monte Conero, whose summit is unfortunately not open to the public, so I head towards the abbey of San Pietro, where I take the Belvedere path, which offers various panoramic views of the sea.

Scorcio sul mare
dalle pendici del Monte Conero

I go down to take the path that leads to Passo del Lupo (formerly Passo della Croce), and from there the view ranges on the entire southern part of the Conero coast.

Panorama dal Monte Conero
con Sirolo, Numana e oltre

And then the goal of this morning is revealed to me: a beach that seems to come from a dream, with two white stacks embellishing its northern end.

Spiaggia delle due Sorelle
panorama dai pressi del Passo del Lupo

There is no one except a young couple in a tiny yellow tent. The path that goes down to the beach is officially closed. Actually, it is in good condition, except for the very last stretch. 

Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle

A seagull is watching me, or maybe not, from one of the two stacks.

Spiaggia delle Due Sorelle

The water is cold as if it were April, as this year in May the weather has almost always been bad. But the transparency and calm of the sea are an irresistible attraction, and I can't deny myself a cathartic bath.

I return to Sirolo, extremely hungry. I see many bushes of Cistus Albidus.

Cistus Albidus
sulle pendici del Monte Conero

I haven't seen so many since the days of the Great Traverse of Elba.

My sweethart and I spend the rest of the day on the beach, enjoying a little well-deserved rest.

Sirolo, Spiaggia Urbani
vista verso Monte Conero


We are pleasantly surprised by the beauty of this village. We reach Piazza Giacomo Leopardi first. The statue of the poet observes us from his pedestal, in the wide and splendid frame of the Palazzo del Comune.

Recanati, Piazza Giacomo Leopardi
monumento al poeta

We walk along the suggestive streets of the village towards the south, and upon arriving at the Liceo Classico, we look out over the balcony of the cloister, for a panoramic view.

Recanati, balcone del Liceo Classico
panorama su parte del borgo

Along the way, an installation declaims, pleasantly decorated, the verses of L'Infinito, the most famous work of the poet.

Recanati, Via Antici
decorazioni per l'Infinito

We reach the little square that inspired Il Sabato del Villaggio, we enter the church where the poet was baptized.

Recanati, Chiesa di S. Maria di Montemorello
chiesa battesimale di Giacomo Leopardi

A visit of Casa Leopardi is a must.

casa di Giacomo Leopardi

We admire the rich library, a result of the efforts of Giacomo's father Monaldo, and many other objects that accompanied the life of the poet. We listen with religious attention to the words of the guide, which describes the story of a genius that goes far beyond poetry.

I am seized by a moment of strong emotion when I look at the original manuscript of L'Infinito, and the pen and the inkwell with which they were written.


We grant ourselves a quick visit to Loreto. The bronze statue of Pope John XXIII welcomes us, smiling and with open arms.

statua a Papa Giovanni XXIII

We enter Piazza della Madonna.

Loreto, Piazza della Madonna
particolare della fontana

Loreto, Piazza della Madonna
Santuario Maggiore della Santa Casa e della Madonna di Loreto

We visit the Basilica della Santa Casa. Decent clothing is required; no shorts.

The statue of the Madonna Nera, with its strongly evocative aura, captivates our hearts for a few moments.


We spend the last day of this unforgettable stay on the beach of Portonovo, located in the northern part of the Conero coast.

To top it off, we booked a Brodetto all'Anconetana for lunch one day in advance. Authentic and exquisite taste of fish and sea food! We accompany it with the typical local wine Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.

Along the road to Ancona, where we will take the return train, we stop for a moment to observe the Mezzavalle Beach.

vista verso la Spiaggia di Mezzavalle

gb, 2019-06-15

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