I conceived and planned this journey in the autumn-winter of 2017. For me it represented a reminiscence meaning, to rediscover my paternal family origins, through places visited during childhood, but also an exploratory sense, to broaden my horizons beyond beyond what I already knew.

The itinerary crosses the Marche from west to east, starting from Fabriano and reaching the Conero. I have traveled along it in the spring of 2017, at the beginning of the summer of 2019, in May 2023, and in May 2024, mostly accompanied by my beloved wife, but also by various friends.

You cross an area rich in history, culture and nature, you can appreciate a wide variety of landscapes, starting from the suggestive mountains of the Fabriano area and the Frasassi area, continuing among the gentle and green hills of Vallesina, to conclude with the enchanting views and the renowned beaches of the Conero Park. And in addition, you cross numerous villages and towns, each with its own particular charm.

Following this itinerary on foot allows you to cross the territory slowly and carefully and fully appreciate its images, colors and scents. If you add to this the exquisite cuisine, the typical wines, and the excellent hospitality, there are all the elements to be able to derive a very satisfying experience, from an emotional and sensorial point of view.

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In memory of Rolando Barchiesi,
★ Jesi (AN), 1926-06-05,
† Casez (TN), 2004-08-16.

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In summary

The itinerary consists of six stages, for a total of 106 km:

• First stage, from Fabriano to Pierosara, 22.1 km
• Second stage, from Pierosara to Serra San Quirico, 10.6 km
• Third stage, from Serra San Quirico to Cupramontana, 16.3 km
• Fourth stage, from Cupramontana to Santa Maria Nuova, 23.9 km
• Fifth stage, from Santa Maria Nuova to Offagna, 14.9 km
• Sixth stage, from Offagna to Sirolo, 18.2 km

The maximum altitude is 882 m, and the total positive altitude difference is 3430 m, quite evenly divided between the various stages. Some stages offer variations, following which the distances and differences in altitude may vary.

With rare unavoidable exceptions, the route avoids traffic. The percentage of asphalt surface is a minority in the first two stages, a majority in the subsequent stages.

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Period

The recommended periods are spring and autumn, when the temperatures are more pleasant, and it is easier to find a place for overnight stays.

Undertaking the route if the temperatures are high is at least a source of discomfort, but can also put you in a situation of serious difficulty.

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General logistics

The Pedemontana Railway of the Marche is the recommended means of transport to reach Fabriano, the starting point of the itinerary, but also Genga - San Vittore, a reference point for the trip to the Frasassi Caves, and Serra San Quirico, the end of the second stage. Please refer to the Trenitalia website.

For the rest, a network of bus lines allows easy travel in all directions. Consult the timetables of the Transport and Mobility Company of Ancona and its province. The timetables can also be downloaded in PDF format.

For overnight stays, we don't give many indications; we only mention the places where we have been guests; see the end of this page. Each trekker will take care to inform himself/herself and book places according to his/her habits, preferences and economic budget.

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Cartography

For the first stage: Monti Editore, Carta n. 10 dei Sentieri 1:25000, Parco Naturale Regionale della Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi.

For the Conero area: Monti Editore, Carta n. 6 dei Sentieri 1:25000, Parco Naturale Regionale del Conero.

For the entire route: OpenStreetMap, whose maps are also used for offline navigation in our free trekking-etc/viewer app.

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Fabriano

Fabriano is the starting point of the journey.

In Piazza del Comune there are the Palazzo del Podestà and the Sturinalto Fountain,

as well as the Loggia of San Francesco:

A short distance away, in Piazza Papa Giovanni Paolo, is the Cathedral of San Venanzio,

with the adjacent cloister,

and the former Hospital of Santa Maria del Buon Gesù:

An important reference to the city's historic industrial vocation is the Paper and Watermark Museum, located near the Regina Margherita Park, in Viale Giambattista Zobicco.

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The Frasassi Caves

To reach the square where the shuttles depart to take you to the cave entrance, you can get off the train at the Genga - San Vittore station, walk about 200 m north, cross the level crossing, and head towards the large square, where the ticket office is also located.

The guided tour gives access to a part of the vast cave complex, equipped with walkways and stairs that offer a comfortable and safe route.

Listening to the guide's explanations, you can sense the great surprise and immense emotion felt by the discoverers, and understand the mechanisms underlying the formation and evolution of a true geological wonder like this. Thanks to the suggestive lighting, you can easily be amazed at the sight of the incredible shapes that nature has patiently created over the millennia.

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Temple of Valadier

It is an octagonal temple, located in the Frasassi Gorge, built inside a rocky cave, very particular and appreciated both for its architecture and its location.

The shuttles to the Frasassi Caves depart from the same car park from which the shuttles to the Temple of Valadier leave. The visit is paid, and from the arrival car park to the temple you need to walk for about 800 m, overcoming more than 200 m of difference in altitude.

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Mount Valmontagnana

Reserved to those who follow one of the two challenging variants of the first stage, Monte Valmontagnana, with its 931 m, narrowly beats the altitude record of Monte Murano, 882 m.

The entire ridge, which separates the Fabriano area from that of Frasassi, is very appreciable from a landscape point of view, with large meadows at the summit.

The view from the top is all-round; towards the north-east, you can see Monte Murano and Monte Revellone, the Gola della Rossa, and Pierosara.

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San Vittore delle Chiuse

You pass through San Vittore delle Chiuse in the final part of the first stage.

The prominent element is certainly the ancient abbey.

The medieval tower that leads to the bridge over the Sentino River is also particular.

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Pierosara

Pierosara is a charming little village, at the end of the first stage.

It stands on a slightly pronounced hill, and its characteristic element is the tower, located at the highest point of the town.

Very suggestive at night, it offers a peaceful sleep, away from any noise.

The sunrise on the Gola della Rossa has an undeniable charm, a reward for those who are particularly early risers.

From the town, in 30-40 minutes, via path 117, it is possible to reach the Foro degli Occhialoni, a large and spectacular cavity in the rock; the last part of the trail is only suitable for expert hikers.

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Mount Murano

The top of Monte Murano, a non-obligatory passage during the second stage, offers a very wide panorama. On clear days, the view dominates the Vallesina, and from near the cross you can glimpse Monte Conero and the horizon of the sea, 50 km away.

Looking in the opposite direction, from the real summit, a few tens of meters away, the Valmontagnana ridge stands out, and you can see Pierosara.

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Serra San Quirico

You arrive in Serra San Quirico at the end of the second stage.

First you come across the former Church of Santa Maria del Mercato.

While the central part of the town stands tall, surrounded by walls, from which the bell tower of the Church of Santa Lucia emerges.

In Piazza della Libertà, in the center of the ancient village, there is an interesting fountain,

as well as the Municipal Tower, and the Loggia Manin porch, from which the view extends over the surrounding hills.

A characterizing element of the village are the Copertelle, suggestive porticoes that run inside the walls, and which are part of the path.

In the lower part of the town, there is the picturesque railway station.

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Abbey of St. Helena

Often cited as a point of interest in Serra San Quirico, the Abbey of Sant'Elena is actually located 4.6 km from the town, along the third stage of the journey (route variant).

It is privately owned, but near the entrance there is a noticeboard with directions for requesting and obtaining permission to visit it.

The facade has a characteristic bell tower, with two bells.

The Romanesque style interior appears larger and more solemn than one might imagine from the outside.

The complex is also equipped with other facilities, which make it a rather popular location for wedding celebrations and other ceremonies.

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Hermitage of the White Friars

The Eremo dei Frati Bianchi is also located along the third stage of the journey (variant route).

A place of great charm, evocative of intense sacredness.

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Cupramontana

It is the arrival point of the third stage, at the end of which is the Town Hall.

Crossing it you access the suggestive Piazza IV Novembre, oval in shape.

Other places of interest include the Abbey Church of the Beato Angelo, the Church of S. Maria della Misericordia, the Don Maurizio Fileni Fund.

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San Paolo di Jesi

You pass through it during the fourth stage, and together with Cupramontana it is an area dedicated to the production of the renowned wine Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, as can be clearly seen from the campaigns that precede it.

Some of the places of interest are the Civic Tower, the Town Hall, the Parish Church, the Church of Misericordia.

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Santa Maria del Colle

In the final part of the fourth stage, you pass in front of this charming little church:

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Santa Maria Nuova

It is the arrival point of the fourth stage.

In addition to the Palazzo Comunale, and the adjacent Palazzo Frontini, which are located in the central Piazza Mazzini, other places of interest are the Church of San Giuseppe, and the church of Sant'Antonio da Padova.

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Jesi

20 minutes by bus, which runs at fairly close times, are enough to reach Jesi from Santa Maria Nuova.

There are many monuments, churches and other places of interest; among these the Pergolesi Theater,

the Clementine Arch,

and Piazza Federico II.

The medieval walls surrounding the historic center are mighty;

you can get inside through three gates only: Porta a Valle, where the bus station is located, Porta Bersaglieri

and Porta Garibaldi.

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Polverigi

You pass through Polverigi during the fifth stage. In the center of the town the Municipal Palace stands out.

Crossing the portal, you enter the nucleus of the historic center, which can be quickly explored along a circular street.

Other interesting places are the Aqueduct Tower, in Piazza Ragnini,

the Church of the SS. Sacramento, at Villa Nappi,

and the Church of Sant'Antonio.

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Offagna

The most evident and important monumental structure of the village is the Medieval Fortress.

The view, from the adjacent panoramic point, is wide and spectacular.

If you wish to visit, in addition to the fortress itself, also the adjoining armory room, full of valuable pieces, it is advisable to check the opening days and hours.

Other structures that are part of the Museum Complex, together with the fortress, are the Museum of Natural Sciences and the Museum of Liberation of Ancona.

Along the route, in Via Arengo, there is both the Church of Santa Lucia,

that the Church of San Tommaso Apostolo.

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Osimo

Offagna is the most favorable point, via public mobility, to visit Osimo. The bus lines offer various trips throughout the day, and the journey time is around twenty minutes.

The village, surrounded by high walls, offers various points of interest, including the Town Hall, where the Headless Osimani are found,

and the St. Leopard's Co-Cathedral.

There are various other churches, and the Theatre.

Very scenic is the panoramic terrace, which faces south and east, and where the gaze, starting from the sea, turning clockwise, embraces countless hills and numerous villages, including Recanati.

Of great fascination and interest are the caves, a large system of underground tunnels dug over centuries of history, in the sandstones of the subsoil. During the visit, the competent guide accompanies visitors along the approximately 300 meters of caves accessible to the public, narrating the history and characteristics of the place.

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Camerano

The beautiful village of Camerano is located roughly halfway through the sixth stage; along the way there is first the Sperandio Elementary School,

and further on Piazza Roma, the center of the town.

Here there is, on one side, a bust of the painter Carlo Maratti, a native of the village, and Palazzo Mancinforte,

and on the other side, the Maratti Theater.

A strong element of attraction are the Caves, which can be visited upon reservation.

Like those of Osimo, they have been dug throughout history, but in tuff; for guided tours, it is advisable to check the days and hours.

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Massignano

Located on a gentle hill, Massignano is along the second part of the sixth stage. Along the path, there is the Church of Santa Margherita.

Other points of interest are, in the central square, the Civic Tower, the Town Hall, the Church of San Giacomo Maggiore.

Further along the route towards Sirolo, there is the lovely little church of the Madonnina.

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Sirolo

At the end of the sixth stage you reach Sirolo, with its Church of San Nicola di Bari.

A little further on, from the central Piazzale Marino you can admire a wonderful panorama of the Conero coast.

It is necessary to lose 125 m of altitude to go down to Spiaggia Urbani.

Crossing the beautiful historic center, you will find the Municipal Theater.

A picturesque event is the Challenge of the Contrade. It's difficult for competitors to carry water into a flared bowl while running!

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Monte Conero

The summit of Monte Conero, a military site, cannot be visited.

However, a short distance away, there is the suggestive Badia di San Pietro.

Next to the abbey, you can take path 301 and follow it briefly to reach one of the viewpoints overlooking the sea.

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Passo della Croce and Due Sorelle

From the Sirolo cemetery, take path 302, and go up it, gaining about 100 m in altitude, until you reach the Passo della Croce, or Passo del Lupo.

The white beach is wonderful, and the two white rocks, called the Two Sisters, embellish its northern end.

The path down to the beach is officially closed. Therefore you should not travel it, since, even if you do not want to consider the ban, there are no guarantees of finding it in viable conditions.

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Recanati

Recanati can be reached by bus, preferably from Aspio Terme.

It is truly one of the most beautiful villages around. The center is Piazza Giacomo Leopardi, where there is a statue of the poet, the Palazzo del Comune, and the Torre del Borgo.

Walking along the suggestive streets of the village towards the south, in the cloister of the Liceo Classico there is a balcony that offers a wide panoramic view.

In the small square that inspired the poem Il sabato del villaggio, there is the church where the poet was baptized.

A visit to Casa Leopardi is a must.

Inside you can admire the rich library, a result of the commitment of the poet's father Monaldo, and many other objects that accompanied the poet's life. By listening with religious attention to the words of the guide, one comes to perceive the story of a genius that goes far beyond poetry, and it is easy to get moved when observing the original manuscript of the poem L'infinito, and the pen and inkwell with which they were written.

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Loretto

Loreto can also be reached by public transport, and is on the same bus line that leads to Recanati.

Outside the sanctuary, smiling and with open arms, stands the bronze statue of Pope John XXIII.

In Piazza della Madonna

there is the entrance to the Basilica of the Holy House.

To visit it, decent clothing is required; among other things, short trousers are excluded.

The statue of the Black Madonna strikes and excites, due to its strongly evocative aura.

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Portonovo

The Portonovo beach is located in the northern part of the Conero coast. It can be reached by public transport from Sirolo; the last stretch to go down to the beach must be covered on foot.

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Thanks

• Annalisa, my wife, shared this journey with me, in 2017 and 2019;
• Fulvio and Margherita, dear friends, experienced the initial version of the path with us in 2017, which in many ways was not optimal;
• Maurizio, Cinzia and Filippo accompanied us in 2023;
• Marco, an experienced trekker, walked this path in 2024, and I accompanied him for two and a half stages, greatly appreciating his company; with his advices, he contributed to the improvement of some significant sections of the route.

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2024 update

In the first stage:

• The standard route has been described in greater detail and with more photos
• The variant of Sentiero Cagliostro has been re-introduced and has recently received maintenance
• The variant of Sentiero di Valrapara has been added

In the second stage:

• Improved some details on the descent towards Serra San Quirico

In the third stage:

• The St. Helena's Abbey variant has been added
• The White Friars Hermitage variant has been added
• The directions to the Sanctuary of Blessed Giovanni Righi have been added

In the sixth stage:

• The section that crosses the Aspio Valley has been modified in order to avoid private land and an industrial area, and to offer better crossing points of communication routes

In general, in the various stages the departure and arrival point has been positioned in the center of the concerned town, rather than in the overnight accommodation points originally used by the author.

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Our overnight stays

• Fabriano: Hotel Janus, Piazzale Giacomo Matteotti 45 - 60044 - Fabriano - AN
• Pierosara: B&B Bivacco Frasassi, Pierosara
• Cupramontana: B&B Il Baco, Piazza IV Novembre - 60034 - Cupramontana - AN
• Santa Maria Nuova: B&B Il Giardino delle Rose, Via Scarpara Alta 1 - 60030 - Santa Maria Nuova - AN
• Offagna: B&B Il Punto Magico, Via Pago 7 - 60020 - Offagna - AN
• Sirolo: B&B Le Rose, Via Gaudenti 5 - 60020 - Sirolo - AN